Engine mounting part three!

The battery was shipped direct from EarthX.  The KAI's have you install some anti wear edging strips on the rudder pedal mount brackets under the battery box.  As well as some UHMW strips to the angles that contact the battery.  Then they have you make some foam spacer strips to take up the side to side space.  There is still a 1/8" gap front to back on the battery box.  Not sure what to make of that at this point.  The battery hold down bracket was back ordered.

My wife and I managed to lift the engine from the crate's base up onto the workbench where I used these straps to suspend the engine to remove the shipping brackets.

The clocking of the water outlet nozzle was correct out of the crate.  SCORE!

Next they have you remove the two lower coolant hoses.  Apparently the newer engines come with lifetime silicone hoses for this task where the older ones had rubber that had to be changed on a regular basis.  SCORE!

Left side.

Be aware that they run these engines at the factory so there can be some oil and coolant leak out when removing lines.

Here are the shipping mount plates that get removed.  Saving these in case the engine ever has to be shipped somewhere in the future.

They have you disconnect the crank position sensor connectors and remove the connectors from the mounting bracket.  This is to allow for the engine mount install.  They have these clips that lock them together on both sides and I used these two small screwdrivers to get them apart without bending the clips.

The bracket once the connectors are removed.

Next they want you to remove the radiator line from the coolant tank but there is no way to access the clamp without removing the coil pack.  

It was a tight squeeze to get the pliers on this clamp and get this removed.  It was also hard to get it to break free from the nipple.

Coil pack reinstalled.  These two screws will need to be loctited again but I will wait until the hose is permanently installed.

Then they have you tape up the engine mount to prevent scratches.  I found this totally unnecessary after the fact.  I would skip this step if I were doing it again.

Three of the four engine mount bolts are provided by Vans.  The one long bolt is installed at the factory by Rotax.  It has to be removed.  Do not use the washer or locknut that comes out with this bolt.

Here are the bolts and hardened lock washers that must be used with these bolts.  The lock washers are provided by Vans.

In order to install the engine mount, these zip ties must be cut to free up the crank position sensor cables.  One on the bracket that held the connectors.

And one on the wire bundle in the middle back.

Not happy that this brand new $50K engine comes with a corroded throttle lever bracket.  Others have reported the same so apparently it is common and Rotax refuses to fix this issue.

Then you can slip the engine mount into its home location.  It is a very tight fit.  You must follow the directions exactly to get it on properly with no damage.  You then check for clearance and determine if any shim washers are required.  Mine fit perfectly with no gaps.