Engine Mounting Part Eight!

So Van's let me know that the contractor that Rotax sent in to perform the SB's on my engine before it was shipped to me did not apply Loctite to the aft crank plug and that they had issued a SD for this situation.  Apparently one flight school had already had an incident with a brand new S-LSA where the plug fell out and the engine dumped all the oil overboard.  That being said, the SD referred to other Rotax documents that said that the O-ring needed to be replaced anytime this plug is removed and reinstalled.  So I ordered some O-Rings and a new Copper Gasket that is replaced when the crank locking screw hole bolt is removed and replaced.  I also know that one of the test that must be done after first engine start requires that the valve covers must be removed.  I went ahead and ordered those O-rings as well.  (PSA:  Do not order the prepackaged kit of valve cover O-Rings.  It cost about 4 times the cost of just purchasing the O-Rings separately.)

Next I worked on these adel cushion clamps.  This was a pain in the rear even using all the tricks to work with these things.  Also the bolt called out was too short.  I had to remove it and put in a longer one.  Also not sure but I think the way Rotax builds these harnesses may have changed since Vans took pics of where and how to install these clamps.  I did it the way they suggested but it is obvious it is not optimal for the current harness design.

The bolt was too short.  Had to take it back apart and install the next longer size.

Longer bolt installed.

Then they have you remove these two sealing plugs from the HIC connector.  If you follow their directions, these WILL break off inside the connector and have to be fished out.  The proper way to remove these is to use the proper release pin tool to unlatch the lock.

Engine Mounting Part Seven!

Next comes connecting the engine harnesses to the fuse box cannon plugs.  These must have a sealing ring inserted in them before you attach them.  The seals come from Rotax with the engine.

Here they are installed.  These do sort of lock onto the connector if you turn them hard enough.  The latch is not very significant.  Wish these had some way to safety them because they are kinda important.

Here is the cannon plug that is different than the one called out in the KAI.  Totally different but much more robust design and it can be safety wired.

Here is the other connector that does match the KAI's.

They have you route the ECU cables thru the firewall.  I decided to put some split loom around the sharp edges of the hole to prevent damage to the cables.  The sealing parts and bushings get installed later.