Cowl Fitting Part Four!

Here is the aftermath of trimming the bottom cowl.

Then on to mounting the spinner backplate and the aft side of the prop hub.

If you don't have one of these...GET ONE!  They allow you to turn any wrench into a dogbone adapter for the torque wrench.  As long as you keep it 90deg to the torque wrench, no math required.  Worked great for getting to the nuts on the backside of the prop flange.

Installed!

Next they have you fab this angle tool and drill it to the center of the front of the cowl.

And mark the center of the aft side of the top cowl.

Cowl Fitting Part Three!

Then on to pre-trimming the cowling.  The KAI's ae very specific which edges to trim to the scribe lines and which ones to leave some space.  Pay attention!  Its easy to remove but hard to put back!

I used a cutoff wheel in the die grinder for this operation.

The aftermath of the top cowl trimming.

Cowl Fitting Part Two!

Hinges...

Hinges...

Hinges...

Hinges...

Hinges...

And more hinges...

Cowl Fitting Part One!

Starting the cowl fitting so they have you fab up the hinge pins.

The side pins for the cowl get their tabs radiused.

And they have you fab up the cowl side hinges that join the top and the bottom.  BEWARE! They say 2 each required in the plans but you must make them mirrors of each other.  That's not the same thing, they should not say 2ea required but instead they should say make a left and a right.

Engine Mounting Part Nine!

Then I hooked up the engine case ground wire.  They do not call it out but I also used blue Loctite on this bolt.

Then I connected the solenoid side of the starter power cable.

And finally the starter end of the starter power cable.

Then they have you cut off the other end of the starter solenoid ground wire.

And wrap it in heatshrink.

And finally the starter solenoid signal wire that tells the solenoid when to fire.

Next is safety wiring the magnetic plug.

Then safety wire the oil drain plug.

And finally the oil tank drain.