Cowl Fitting Part Ten!

Then the rivet holes for the top cowl are located by drawing a line up on the top cowl centered on the holes.

Then after fine tuning the necessary gap between the top and bottom sides (to allow for paint and not get chipping on the edges), I marked the holes

And drilled them.

Then I reinstalled the top cowl and used a piece of scrap to help me maintain a consistent gap all along the hinge line.

This ended up working perfectly and the gap looks great!  I can't say that about many of the RV12's I have seen at Osh.  Very few took the time to make this look as good as possible.  The gaps must be adjusted at this stage because you can't really tweak them once the hinges are riveted on.  I will be taking similar pains on the aft side of the top and bottom to ensure nice clean, consistent and straight gaps.

All drilled!

Cowl Fitting Part Nine!

Next the KAI's have you install and bend the side hinge pin so that the retainer tab sits flush against the bottom cowl.

This requires the pin to be bent on two planes.

Left done.

Right done.

Next the top cowl must be notched to allow the pin to come out without hitting the cowl and scratching the paint.  This requires a bigger notch than one might thing.  Van's has always used this crude method and it looks crappy but it works.  I will most likely 3D print a badge that will cover this notch and the tab similar to some of the aluminum ones that are commercially available but they require a ton of mods to the top cowl.  Mine will just sit on top of the fiberglass and be held in place by the screw that secures the pin.

Cowl Fitting Part Eight!

Where the top cowl overlapped the bottom cowl, it is marked and then trimmed.

Next the lower cowl's aft hinges get marked for drilling.

Once all the holes are marked, the bottom cowl gets tapped to the fuse all the way down both sides.  It is critical that the fiberglass is even with the fuse skins.

Then the hinges are drilled and cleco'ed.

Next the side parting line hinges are located.  They are intentionally clamped slightly higher so that the necessary gap between the top and the bottom is less noticeable.

Then they are marked using the flexible ruler.

And then drilled.

Cowl Fitting Part Seven!

Then the bottom cowl is marked for cutting per the plans by measuring forward of the aft side of the white tape that was applied to the front of the fuse.

Only this section on both sides gets trimmed for now.

Then the cowl gets put back on again with tape.

Then the rest of the bottom cowl gets marked for trimming.  

Cowl Fitting Part Six!

They have you measure up from the top of the level to the front corner of the top cowl.

Left side.

Right side.  If they match you are good to go and the cowl is properly aligned.

Double checking that the cowling is centered on the fuse.

Also the aft end of the top cowl is marked for trimming by measuring from  the aft side of the white tape that was applied to the front of the fuse.

Getting the aft hinges ready to go.

Clamping the top cowl to the spinner backplate with the spacers.

Marking the location of the hinge rivet lines.

Super easy way to mark a consistent spacing.  Use a flexible ruler.

All marked.

And drilled in the cowl.

Replacing the top cowl and ensuring that it is back to its proper centered location.

Then taping it so it can't move.

And then drilling the top cowl to the hinge by alternating back and forth side to side.

Once the top cowl was drilled and cleco'ed I installed the lower cowl with tape.  Then I drilled the holes from the front top cowl to the bottom cowl for the three screws per side that get installed later.

The top cowl just overlaps the sides of the bottom cowl at this point.